At the top end, the detente plate was shimmed with 8 thin washers (all carefully cut into quarters) and the space between the shift arm and the return spring was shimmed with a nut. The bottom bearing was replaced with a piece of pvc pipe. In my case, the column had been opened up before and jury-rigged. Here's how it looked when I had the column out:Īs a final note, you never can tell what someone has done before you. 61-62 VINYL 63 64-65 66 1 Vinyl 300.00 500.00 10.00 55.00 1958-1966 Fronts Only 1958-1966 Complete Set, F and R 1963 Add: 1964-1966 w/ Pass. In the end, I didn't know the difference between the "moulding cover" and the "finish panel" (or any of the other parts) without a diagram.
#64 THUNDERBIRD BIRD STEERING COLUMN SHIFTER TUBE DIAGRAM MANUAL#
The shop manual has a name for every part of the dashboard. If I were doing this again, I would loosen it early-a shop light shining through the opening from behind makes the process of working under the hood easier. Late in the process, I figured out that the rubber boot at the bottom of the column had to be loosened. You can see them way down there, on the far right of this shot: Finally, I took off the corner brace and the valve cover, which gave me just enough room to get to the bolts on the firewall. The brake master cylinder is in the way-but I just put that in and wasn't going to take it back out. Some instructions start with removal of the hood hinge, but I was worried about the hood being supported on one hinge. The rubber boot on the firewall needs to come off. Behind it is the shift arm and one of the two bolts mounting the steering shaft to the firewall. The side attached to the steering shaft is already removed.
.jpg "64 thunderbird bird steering column shifter tube diagram")
I have long, skinny arms, but still had a terrible time getting to the bolts on the rag joint, and an even more difficult time reaching the two bolts on the firewall that mount the steering column. A clearer shot of the 12 point bolt on the steering box side of the rag joint (far right). The other pair is from the ignition switch and powers. When the gear selector is in 'R', the backup lights are powered. One pair is for the backup lights, power in from the fuse panel with a splice at the connector to the windshield washer pump (backup lights and washer pump are on the same fuse). I thought I'd note them here in case they can help anyone in the future.Īs I posted earlier, I had a sloppy shifter and a completely broken rag joint (steering coupler) on my 64 hardtop. The neutral safety switch has 2 pairs of wires. I read as many of them as I could before starting the job, but still found a few surprises.
There are lots of posts in the archives on shifter repair and steering column removal.
0 kommentar(er)
